Completing the circuit.

Tagaytay was today's goal. I took the longer route clockwise around Laguna de Bay, avoiding Manila proper. Very nice ride it was too. My new custom fit moulded Bluetooth earphones allowing a excellent quality soundtrack to the journey. 

Damn hot today. Thought about dispensing with the mesh jacket; but.... safety first! I have gotten quite adept at the local motorbike riding style. Undertaking is the norm, sometimes through the roadside dirt to get ahead! Can't be waiting in traffic .....too hot for that shite! 

As I got closer to my destination, a toll booth appeared on a dusty back-road. The label split into those "with" or "without" permit stickers. So, I stopped and was charged the princely sum of 10 pesos (14 pence). Fair enough.

Arrived at the hotel in pretty good time. My rushed research got me a decent hotel, but well away from most of the bars......doh!! Still, came across a One Piece themed bar (Skypiea) near the hotel. Not bad, Saturday night and virtually empty but I don't like talking to people anyway.

Soundtrack: "About Today" - The National

 

A lack of motivation today, as I was booked in for a 2nd night in Tagaytay, there was no imperative to saddle up and move on. Wandered out for a late breakfast and get some laundry done. Eventually got on the bike a bit before noon. Just a short ride today down from the ridge to Taal Lake to get a better view of the Taal volcano. Some great scenery. I rode up a different, quieter back road up to the ridge: not deterred by a road closure due to dangerous collapse of road sign. I got to the point where the "closed" section began; a few guys had a rope across the road, but waved me through. OK then. A few bikes coming the other way bolstered my confidence. The road had indeed collapsed in several places, dangerous for cars, but safe enough on a bike. More great views before back in the traffic and a quick stop for lunch. 

Rest of the afternoon was spent doing nothing much. Only a couple more riding days to go before it is back to Manila to return the bike. Going to head towards the much vaunted coastal road north from Batangas tomorrow. 

Soundtrack: "Wake Up" - Rage Against The Machine

 

Today's ride followed the ridge west and then south towards Batangas to pick up the coastal road. Great scenery; the whole vibe is different south of Manila compared to the the areas to the north (at least that I've been to). The volcanoes give the scenery a very different feel. 

There was another attempt by locals to charge a toll on part of the road south. As none of the other motorists stopped, neither did I. This felt a lot more dodgy than the previous encounter. 

The coast road failed to materialise; I occasionally glimpsed some sea in the distance but the coast road wasn't much to impress. I stopped for lunch before turning north again for Nasugbu. Early arrival at the hotel and less than 100 Kms covered.

According to Google Maps, the road towards Manila looks much more promising.

Soundtrack: "Another Day" - Lodestar

 

Last day proper on the bike and it was a good ride following the coastal road as it ducked and weaved it's way towards Manila. Much of it was pristine freshly laid tarmac, so new, they were still painting on the road markings. There were only glimpses of the scenery through the vegetation, but it was enjoyable. All too soon, the traffic thickened and the craziness of the big city began. It is actually huge fun to ride in such chaos: weaving in and out of traffic; nipping on to the dirt at the side of the road; dodging the pedestrians, dogs and goat. Keeps you alert!

The fun had to end as my hotel came into view. One more short ride tomorrow to return the bike, but otherwise, that's all folks.

As a conclusion to the Phillipines (albeit only Luzon)......Thailand and Vietnam are better in almost every respect. Food, culture, scenery, beer (sorry, but San Miguel is shit), friendliness, (the list goes on!). While it has been good, especially the biking (I am always happier when on the bike!). The only category in which the Phillipines outscores it's neighbours is that they are way better, more considerate drivers. Only my opinion on seeing a limited amount of the country over a limited time; never saw the popular, "paradise" beaches on other islands. My expectations and hopes for the Philippines were not quite met; my problem not the Phillipines. I have enjoyed it, but would I return?? Uuhmm....maybe?

Soundtrack: "McGoohans Blues" - Roy Harper

Southward bound.....

A very brief walk after I woke up confirmed the fact that I wanted to get out of Baler ASAP! To be fair, my cell like room was comfortable enough and I slept well. But I still craved escape, and eschewing breakfast (none to be had.....) I saddled up and without a glance in my rear-view mirror, I was out of there. Always happier when riding......

Fuelled up the bike and myself in Baler town proper (not the seaside ghetto) and decided on the more valley orientated route west. I had initially planned to take the more mountainous route, but the valley route promised more sweeping, sinuous curves rather than the abrupt ones higher up. Turned out to be a good choice. A couple of hours of riding nature's rollercoaster brought me out of the hills. Barely stopped for photos as the ride was too much fun.

Stopped for my obligatory 7-11 rehydration stop where a tooled up cop decided to have a chat. Very friendly and curious as to my journey; a couple of fist-bumps and we were both on our way. 

Out of the mountains now and long straight roads heading inland. Came to a checkpoint where I (along with others) was actually stopped. My driving licence was requested (apparently, the IDP is only valid for 90 days, but as I'm a short term tourist, it was as all good). The official started to ask about bike documents (of which I have none), but soon lost interest when I started to take my helmet off. All in all a painless encounter (no hint of corruption, unlike their Thai counterparts!).

Pitched up in Angeles where I had booked 2 nights. After 8 days straight riding, I needed a day off the bike and a day on the ale.

Soundtrack: "Leave It" - Yes

So, a day off the bike. Got up late, ate, had a wander. Decided to go and see a movie "Locked". But generally just relaxed. Back out in the evening for a couple of beers. Angeles is not a classy place! Heading back towards Manila tomorrow. I want to see some stuff south of the capital, but there is no avoiding Manila to get there. I will be sticking as far East as possible, at least avoiding the centre. That's the plan anyway. 

Soundtrack: "In the shadow of the horns" - Darkthrone

Distance wise, my destination for today wasn't too far. About 100 Kms according to Google maps best option (but still estimated a 4 1/2 hour journey time!!). I'd planned and plotted a more circuitous route in an attempt to utilize the smaller, quieter roads. But, my GPS (true to form..) had other ideas. It point blank refused to load my carefully plotted route plan. Bugger. Google maps would only suggest a direct route, so I aimed for a waypoint along the route I had initially hoped to ride and set off. Fair play to Google: it took me along an "interesting" path: ducking down improbable alleys, cutting through carparks, the occasional dirt track, along country lanes and small towns and through people's back gardens (OK, maybe not that last one!)

The goal was Antipolo/TayTay, a satellite area of Manila and as I got closer to the capital, the traffic got crazier and crazier. Enormous fun on a bike, swarming around the tin boxes and Jeepneys. A murmuration of motorcycles. Wacky races time. There was even a 9 or 10 lane highway at one point, with a dedicated bike lane.....used by all vehicles and bikes used all 10 lanes. I did follow the lead of the local bikers on several occasions as they went on the opposite carriageway to leapfrog the traffic jams, or ignored "no entry" signs. Bikes rule!

There was a "biker bar" near the hotel, purely coincidental you understand 😇. I was the only customer, but still.......cold beer, good food, live music. What's not to like?

Soundtrack: "Roads" - Portishead.

Two nights in TayTay as I wanted to do a clockwise loop East towards the coast. A late start meant it was a shorter loop than planned. Good though; once I'd found my way to the main route. My GPS again sent me along ridiculous lengthy detours for no apparent reason. On the shortcut I took because of the late start, the road turned into a dirt track. Really great fun on the CRF which just bounced it's way joyfully along overtaking the local traffic that had slowed to a crawl.

The hotel I'm in has working Netflix, so bit of binge watching. Not seen any telly for weeks! Just an aside on the beer: San Miguel isn't great. OK if served VERY cold, but not a beer I would seek out.

Soundtrack: "In Maidjan" - Heilung

Up and around.

It was hot in Vigan, already sweating before I even started riding. Heading north to do a loop around the north coast.

Out of the mountains now and firmly on the main roads. Not too busy though and a decent ride.

The north coast is, apparently, famous for it's wind farms. Plenty of the turbines dotted about with the necessary wind blowing the bike around.

Then I arrived in Blue Lagoon, Pagudpud. Riding in, it looked like a beach resort would look in a post apocalyptic zombie movie. Battered and shuttered buildings with a fierce wind coming off the sea. This didn't look promising.

Arrived at my "Transient House" (many of the lower end guesthouses have named themselves as "Transient". I guess that's me?! No power as the supply had, apparently "burnt down"! I'd arrived early too, to get some laundry done; not going to happen...! The power did eventually come back on, but did little to brighten the place up. Really don't get beach holidays. 

Soundtrack: "Just like Heaven" - The Cure

I awoke to the sound of rain. The wind had died down, just enough to give the rain a shot. I could wait it out, or stay another night....but....Noooooooo! I wanted; I needed to escape! On with the waterproofs and away, the freedom of the open road screaming to me!! 

The weather came and went a bit, eventually becoming predictable enough to dispense with the waterproofs. Just as well, because I was slowly broiling in them. The road along the north Luzon coast is very rideable, heartily recommended to any bikers who finds themselves in this part of the world. Some recently cleared landslides littered the road, some declaring "enter at your own risk!" The forces that be seem to put a lot of effort in keeping the roads open.

I'd escaped Blue Lagoon without breakfast and I was getting hungry. I saw signs for a Jollibee (local fast food joint in the Phillipines) 50 km down the road. That'll do. It took a while to cover the distance, my craving for the processed food getting stronger. Eventually arriving .....there was a queue of cars lined up outside and no room to park the bike up! I think it is newly opened up here in the remote north and locals from miles around had come to sample it's dubious delicacies. Bollocks to that. I rolled on a few 100 metres to a roadside burger van type place instead. Two burgers and a pepsi for 94 pence; you can't put a price on class like that!!

It was at this point I had intended to turn inland through the hills to get to my destination, but low dark cloud clung to the horizon, so I continued along the valley route where the weather prospects looked more promising. An uneventful ride brought me to Tuguegarao and a really nice hotel (cheap!).

Finally got my laundry done! Woohoo.

Soundtrack: "Hurt" - Johnny Cash 

Itchy feet kept me moving. I'm really going to have to take a day off from riding soon. But every place I've been to so far hasn't screamed "stay another day!" at me. So, it was the 300Km to Baler on the East coast. Why? Why do I keep doing this? I hate beach resorts! Maybe it was because my highly rated accommodation from Booking.com is most politely described as "grim", but I instantly took a dislike to Baler. These kind of places just creep me out; I don't know why?? Never again! Us homosapiens have evolved to live on land, we shouldn't be anywhere near the sea!

The ride in was good, especially over the hills and down the coast. Coming into this province, there was a much more obvious army/police presence. There have been checkpoints all over the place, mostly unmanned or at worst unenforced. Here though, army types with guns stood by the checkpoints. Still not stopping or checking anybody, but a visible presence nonetheless.

Soundtrack: "Billy's Bones" - The Pogues